Lobster Loyalty?

Over a year since my last post, a recent trip to Maine for my friend Tiffany’s wedding inspired me to write about the source of a great East Coast debate – the lobster roll.

Lobster roll at Red’s Eats

When J and I drove the Maine coast for our honeymoon three years ago, we ate our fair share of these treats – and learned a bit about the passionate perspectives behind a seemingly simple dish. As described in the New York Times, lobster lovers are divided as to how the meat should be dressed…Mayo? Butter? A bit of salt and pepper? Nothing at all?

On this trip, we made a stop at the famous Red’s Eats, stood patiently in line, and were rewarded with a toasty bun full of unadorned lobster. Red’s provides both drawn butter and mayo on the side, but we found that just a touch of butter was enough so as not to overpower the richness and flavor of the star of the show. Indeed, some purists argue that if the meat is fresh enough, you shouldn’t need much else to accompany it. The roll at Red’s certainly proved this point, though I think a small amount of mayo can be tasty if you’re in the mood.

The line at Red’s – worth the wait!

What are YOUR thoughts on the lobster roll debate? Or are you not a lobster fan at all and prefer another summer sandwich? Post a comment below!

I’m baaack!

Hi food lovers,

As you can see from the date of my last post, things have been so hectic since the fall that I’m sad to say my own motto of putting food first has fallen by the wayside. Now don’t get me wrong, wonderful meals have been had (I’ll have to do a post on Mother’s Day chicken fricassee), and hours have been spent (over?)analyzing details of taste and texture. But this blog has been sadly neglected despite it making me so happy to do it. Lately I’ve been recognizing how much I’ve missed swapping food stories with you all, so even though the posts might not be as frequent as before, I’m hoping not to let months go by anymore!

Which brings me to the topic which inspired me to hit the keyboard again…SANDWICHES.

April issue of Saveur – yes please!

Justin and I have long fantasized about owning our own little cafe one day. It would be the kind with big, worn wooden tables, thick diner mugs of good coffee, and a stay-all-day kind of attitude. But the star of the show would be sandwiches. A few of our favorites which would definitely make the cut:

• Flying Saucer Grilled Cheese: A relic of Justin’s childhood, but no adult should miss out. Take your regular grilled cheese fixins, butter up this bad boy…

…and you’ve got yourself the ooeyest, gooiest, circliest sandwich you’ll ever see. Sharp cheddar recommended.

• Justin’s Special Breakfast Sammy: Wheat bread, fried egg, bacon (real or veggie), all sealed together with your favorite cheese. Sometimes I wake up to this when I’m about to go in for a 12-hour workday, and believe me, it starts the day off right.
• J&R’s Sandwich Supreme: Fresh bread slathered with pesto, tomatoes, avocado, fresh mozzarella, and lettuce. There are many iterations – add olive tapenade, arugula, roasted red peppers, or just about anything else your little heart desires (today we had rosemary bread). The key is fresh ingredients whenever possible.

So tell me, what are YOUR favorites? Add a comment below to share your sandwich secrets. Who knows, maybe one day they’ll end up on the menu at a new little cafe…

Yogurt with a Kick

My sister slept over the other night, and in the morning we awoke to the smell of hot coffee and the sound of fresh fruit being chopped. Early morning grogginess quickly evaporated as Justin set down in front of us two bowls of his current favorite breakfast:

J's Signature Greek Yogurt

To kick off your day with this treat, just top a cup or so of Greek yogurt (you can find individual servings or larger tubs at the store) with a dollop of honey, a sprinkle of granola, and a handful of whatever fruit you have on hand (the combination of bananas, strawberries, and blueberries pictured above provides a perfect combination of textures and flavors). In addition to its health benefits over regular yogurt (more protein, less sodium), the Greek variety adds a tangy taste and beautifully smooth texture. I prefer nonfat as it cuts down on the richness – Justin believes the richer, the better!

Hey There, Street Food – You Clean Up Nice!

A big trend right now is taking simple food and elevating it to gourmet status (witness the rise of the designer hamburger, cupcake, etc.). Beyond individual food items, you can see this happening in the recent obsession with upscale street food of all kinds. To see what all the fuss is about, I checked out a couple of hot spots…

When my friend Mara visited town recently, we hit up Gaztro-Wagon, a new sandwich shop on the north side. The proprietor would like to peddle his wares on the street via a food truck, but Chicago currently doesn’t allow them. While he’s waiting to see if his request to change the rules goes through, he’s holed up in a tiny storefront in Edgewater (be warned: this place is literally a hot spot – meaning, no A/C).

Photo by the Chicago Tribune

The chalkboard offered quite a few options, but Mara and I both ordered the lobster roll, which came piled high with plump bits of lobster tucked into warm naan (all the sandwiches here are actually “naan-wiches”). It had a bit too much mayo for my taste, but I may have been spoiled by the lobster rolls I had on my honeymoon in Maine, where the meat was so good there was really no need for dressing. But make no mistake, this was a tasty roll – I loved the thin slice of pickle which layered in an unexpected flavor. With some plantain chips on the side, I was a happy camper. Since I keep reading about the pork shoulder and wild boar belly, I might have to go back soon with husband in tow…

Next up, I finally visited Xoco, the newest addition to the Rick Bayless empire of Mexican dining. I had been meaning to go for months, and my dad and I actually attempted it once but gave up due to the infamous line to get in. This time, my friend Meryl and I braved the wait time and were rewarded with two delicious tortas. Funnily enough, just as you expect bread and get naan at Gaztro-Wagon, here you expect tortillas and get…bread! But not just any bread – picture the perfect baguette, crusty on the outside with a chewy, soft interior. We shared a garlicky mushroom sandwich with goat cheese, arugula, black beans and salsa, and the daily special which paired mixed greens with ricotta. Both were the perfect example of how great ingredients can up the ante of a simple meal. We also contentedly consumed a side of flawless guac and chips and finished up with cinnamon sugar-studded churros dipped in soft serve ice cream. Though the service was lacking (between ordering at the counter and the many runners responsible for bringing the food out, it seems some things get lost in the fast pace), I would love to return in winter for a cup of the famous hot chocolate…and more tortas.

Photo by Serious Eats

Meals like this are a great reminder that food doesn’t have to be unaffordable or served in fancy surroundings to be gourmet!

The Reign of Bourdain

I just finished reading Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly and Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook pretty much back-to-back. Once you’ve read the first, you can’t help but be curious about the latter. The author of both is Anthony Bourdain, an in-your-face guy who somehow provoked in me simultaneous reactions of “Just shut up!” and “Tell me more…”

Kitchen Confidential essentially tracks his crazy career as a good-but-not-great chef, though not in a linear way – there are plenty of asides, advice, rants, and reminiscences. Throughout his tales of drug-fueled kitchen adventures, I kept thinking, “This guy is kind of an asshole,” but the book is saved because of two things. First, you get the sense he would be the first to tell you he’s kind of an asshole. And second, he writes in a truly engaging way about the world of food, from a behind the scenes look at a day in the life of a chef, to a chapter on “how to cook like the pros” (butter and shallots are necessary, a full set of specialized knives is not) to bigger-picture descriptions of how the restaurant industry works. He has an eye for detail that makes you really feel what it’s like to work the line, and this is what kept me turning the pages and tolerating the over-testosteroned tone.

Kitchen Confidential was written when Bourdain was in his mid-forties, recovering from heroin addiction and nearly burned out after decades in many different kitchens, an unknown chef.

What a difference a decade makes.

The book was a hit, and Bourdain is now a celebrity chef with his own TV show, guest judging spots on Top Chef…basically, he’s a star. Case in point: in Kitchen Confidential, he writes about how uber-famous chefs like Eric Ripert wouldn’t be giving him a call anytime soon. In Medium Raw? Ripert is described as his best friend in the world.

Medium Raw is composed of stand-alone chapters covering a wide range of topics, including reflections on Bourdain’s life since Kitchen Confidential and his thoughts on “selling out,” his heroes and villains in the cooking world, and changes and trends in the industry. I found this book to be much more lazily written, with a lot more gratuitous sexualized language (how many times do you really need to compare a food experience to a blow job, getting laid, etc.? Or use the word “clusterfuck?”). And yet…there are still plenty of juicy tidbits and beautiful descriptions of the pleasures of eating and cooking. My favorite chapter, titled “My Aim is True,” profiles the meticulous work of Justo Thomas, who cleans and prepares 700 pounds of fish a day for renowned seafood restaurant Le Bernadin.

If you’re interested in the musings of a man who relishes ripping on everyone from wait staff to vegetarians to food world gods (and of course, “bastard” food bloggers), but still has a true love and reverence for the culture of cooking, I recommend Kitchen Confidential. On the other hand, I’d wait until Medium Raw comes out in paperback. Or save your money entirely and borrow my copy – I’ll put Post-It notes on the good chapters 🙂

Pure Michigan

We are off to Michigan today to squeeze in a little beach time – a delayed 4th of July vacation, if you will. One of my favorite things about escaping the city for a few days is the almost instant sense of relaxation, which also means a relaxed approach to cooking. Our local market (where we always pick up a couple jars of our favorite tomato sauce) is stocked to bursting with fresh goodies, and we just grab whatever looks good. Dinner on a recent trip was:

Beautiful fingerling potatoes

Broccoli sauteed with olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper (prepared by our friend Kris)

Grilled burgers (meat purchased from the butcher down the street)

While preparing the meal, we like to turn on some music and pour out some drinks (as evidenced in the broccoli photo). Quality ingredients, simple preparation = more time to sit on the porch and watch for hummingbirds.

Festival Fare

Chicagoans tend to have a love-hate relationship with the Taste of Chicago. Traffic, crowds, tourists, long lines for overpriced, mostly underwhelming food — can you tell where I stand? 🙂

But I promise I’m not a festival grinch – I do love the idea of celebrating our city and the food within it, so this year I decided to check out a few of the many other, smaller street fairs on the summer calendar. And I took my camera along…

Andersonville Midsommarfest

Right in our neighborhood!

We sampled the creamy frozen cheesecake, with a coconut-infused crust hidden under the chocolate shell!

Taste of Randolph Street

Known for being the “foodie fest.”

Left: Popcorn shrimp (get it?) with parmesan, chives, and truffle oil. Right: Mac & cheese muffins with smoked gouda and sharp cheddar. Both from Market Bar.

Samosas from Veerasway. Very tasty but could have used some chutney!

Watermelon doused with lemonade from Wishbone. Perfectly refreshing.

Coleslaw, also from Wishbone. Waaay too salty (and I love salt).

The Raven

We didn’t realize quite how kids-oriented this fest was until we arrived to the sounds of the ABC song being performed with guitar accompaniment on the music stage. Oh well, might as well try some kiddie food…

Deep fried cookie dough. Yep, you heard right.

A quick tip if you’re planning to hit some street fairs: many are advertised as free, but when you get to the entrance it feels like the “suggested donation” of $5 or $10 is mandatory. If you’re on a student (or otherwise small) budget like me, it’s tough to spend that extra cash when the food itself tends to be pricey. So, I suggest being selective about where you want to pony up. For example, I gave a donation at The Raven because it supports local tutoring programs, but at the Taste of Randolph I swallowed my pride and said, “Sorry, I can’t.” That extra $10 meant I could try another dish, which I figure is still a way of supporting local business!

And now for the bonus pic from Taste of Randolph…

Can you spot the back of Vince Vaughan's head?

A Trip Down Anniversary Lane

Justin and I got married a year ago yesterday! In honor of the most amazing day, full of family, friends…and food, a look back at the wedding menu created by our amazing caterer, J&L.

All photos by the wonderful Susan Ryan Photography. Please do not reproduce without permission.

Appetizers

These were passed around in the lobby of the Notebaert Nature Museum during cocktail hour.

Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with Cocktail Sauce

Rice Paper Baskets with Seared Tuna, Avocado and Japanese Pickled Ginger

Not pictured: Miniature Scallion Corncakes with Prosciutto, Crème Fraiche and Chive; Herbed Crepe Bundles with Lemon Asparagus Mousse; Miniature Pizza Wedges with Spinach, Caramelized Onions and Shiitake Mushrooms.

First Course

Out on the patio: Trio of Chilled Soups served with Parmesan Bread Stick

Behind the scenes: Chef Kevin Kelly plating a LOT of soup

Left to Right: Mint Infused Spring Pea with Drizzle of Paprika Oil, Gingered Carrot garnished with Crème Fraiche, Chive Vichyssoise garnished with Crispy Leek

Second Course

Salad of Mesclun, Red Oak Leaf Lettuce and Watercress with Spring Asparagus, Roasted Red and Yellow Beet, Crumbled Goat Cheese, and Lemon Tarragon Vinaigrette

Mmm, bread.

Entree Options

Served with mini truffle scented twice-baked potatoes and market veggies.

Roasted Salmon Roulade with Caramelized Leeks & Roasted Peppers, Stone Ground Mustard Veloute

Sliced Peppercorn Crusted Grilled Beef Tenderloin served with Red Wine and Balsamic Reduction

Crispy Pan Seared Risotto Cake with Sliced Wild Mushroom & Red Wine Reduction...and kiddie meal

Dessert

Created by Maggie Roeder Cakes (but, we didn’t actually have a cake!).

Cupcakes! Square: Mocha Chocolate Dipped in Ganache. Round: Almond with White Chocolate Buttercream and Chocolate Flower

Late-night friandise: Chocolate Ganache Tarts with Gold Dusted Ganache Filled Raspberries, Prickly Pear Pate De Fruit, Lemon Mousse Tarts with Lemon Candy Garnish, Cream Puffs Filled with Peanut Butter Buttercream and Dipped in Chocolate, Espresso Truffles, Apricot Linzor Bars, 3 Ginger Cookies, Meringue Sandwich Cookies Filled with Preserves

Petite sweets for a little sugar kick on the dance floor!

Around the World in a Week – Day 7: Italy

For the last night in our international cuisine challenge, we headed back to more familiar cooking territory: Italian food. Rather than pasta, though, I was in the mood for seafood, and found a recipe for pesce all’acqua pazza in Marcella Hazan’s “Marcella Cucina.”

I liked how Hazan’s recipe intro noted that she was at first turned off by the name of the dish, because I almost passed it up too – Fish in Crazy Water? But I was intrigued by the simplicity of the ingredient list for the sauce: tomatoes, water, garlic, parsley, red chili pepper, olive oil, and salt. I wasn’t expecting anything too exciting, especially after I cut open my apparently ripe tomatoes to reveal disappointingly light pink insides. So, I added a squirt of tomato paste to bump up the color and flavor, and hoped for the best.

We weren’t disappointed – after simmering for over 45 minutes, the ingredients married perfectly into a beautifully rich, flavorful sauce for our rockfish (a good alternative to the called-for red snapper, which is on the seafood watch list to avoid). Even Justin, who prefers meatier, oilier fish, said that this was his favorite dish of the week! I think it didn’t hurt that I served it with his favorite garlicky new potatoes… 🙂

One of the lessons from our experience this week is to not be afraid to get creative: we had no red chilies in house, so I substituted a spoonful of leftover piri piri sauce from the other night. Stay tuned for other thoughts about our international challenge!

Around the World in a Week – Day 6: Africa

Off to Africa for our sixth night of international cooking! Though one of my all-time favorite cuisines is Ethiopian, I didn’t quite feel up to the challenge of making injera. Nevertheless, we stuck to sub-Saharan East Africa to create sweet potato patties served with mixed greens and mung bean sprouts. The recipe is from a vegetarian cookbook called “World Food Cafe 2” by Chris and Carolyn Caldicott.

The patties are actually a mixture of sweet and white potatoes, onion, red pepper, and fresh corn, flavored with an array of spices including cumin, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, cayenne peppers, and fresh ginger and cilantro (the recipe also calls for ground cardamom, but at around $15 for a tiny jar, we skipped it!). After frying in sunflower oil, they had a scrumptious flavor similar to some Indian pakoras I’ve had the pleasure to consume. The accompanying piri piri, a chili-based sauce used throughout Africa, added just the right kick of heat – and we have plenty left over to use as a future marinade. Tip: ALWAYS wear gloves when handling hot chilies!